pamir highway
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pamir highway印象
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Having spent two weeks travelling in Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan, the Pamir Highway was definitely a highlight. Scenery is stunning and the biggest surprise were all the wild flowers. it was like driving through a garden. High snowy peaks, milky blue glacial rivers and the flowers, .........Heaven
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Wonderful mountain scenery and beautiful lakes. Lovely hot springs along the way, and yurts to sleep in overnight. Definitely worth a visit.
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It is an average Mountain Road with some bad patches. From Dushanbe to Darvaz Road is good. New Tunnel Near Wahdat has been recently Opened.
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I did the whole Tajik Pamir Highway from Khorog to Murghab. I drove my own car so much nicer to feel the road and enjoy the spectacular sceneries. The mix of high mountains with yaks and Kyrgyz villages are very nice.
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If you are an adventerous traveller you'd like it. If you serach for clean places, nice toilettes, restaurants... the Pamir is not for you although the nature is more than beautiful.
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Our route was: Dushanbe-Kalikum-Khorog-Ishkashim-Langar-Alichor-Murghab-Sary Tash. We chose Pamir Guides/META (Saidali Goibuldaev) - who we highly recommend. It was an unforgettable trip.Thoughts: The altitude is the biggest challenge. It is easier to acclimate going the direction we went rather than the reverse. A significant portion of the road from Dushanbe to Khorog is extremely dangerous due in large part to the many semi trucks from China transporting goods. If you are squeamish about cliffs, fast moving rivers, and ever present threat of head-on collisions it would be better to take the flight from Dushanbe to Khorog and then begin your road trip. On the other hand, the view across the river of Afghanistan from Kalikum to Khorog is interesting/stunning/worth the risk. The Afghan Market across the river from Ishkashim is worth seeing...even to just, have a "taste" of that country. If you are traveling on to Afghanistan that would be the best place to cross the border. Other highlights include: the Museum of Sufi mystic Muabata Kadam at Yamg. We highly recommend staying at his grandson's Homestay in that same town. He is a retired school teacher and curator of the museum...and a really nice guy. Nearby is Bibi Fatima hot spring - the best you will find anywhere (and way better than Garm-e-Chasma). The Wakhan Valley is spectacular. Beyond Yamg (between Ishkashim and Langer) the terrain for the remainder of our journey was bleak and brown high mountain desert. If we did this again, we would try to figure out how to skip Langer to Murghab...though that isn't really logistically possible. During those days of travel, the countryside will be more enjoyable if you take time to trek, horseback or yak ride, and be sure you have enjoyable travel companions that you really want to have a unique experience with! Don't forget to take your guitar and a deck of cards. Overall: this is a challenging trip. If you choose to do it, you will rightfully earn bragging privileges to something few have experienced. Be sure to believe and prepare for the temperature and altitude extremes that you read about. Also, plan that your trip will be very different than you expect...if you enjoy unknowns, adrenaline spikes, and adventure, this is a good trip to create some memories. However, the risks are real...especially altitude sickness and very dangerous driving conditions as noted above. We would agree with a previous reviewer that this is definitely THE reason to visit Tajikistan. If you can't get the GBAO permit, don't waste your time...go to Kyrgyzstan instead.
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It was a rough trip: bad roads, very basic accommodations, monotonous meals, extreme temperature changes, high elevation. Spectacular scenery made up for all the difficulties.
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We took a trip to this amazing part of the world with "The Traveller" - the ex-British Museum travel company now owned by Steppes. We travelled from West to East as recommended in a previous review and benefitted generally from the slow acclimatisation. Unfortunately we were told at the last minute that the route into Tajikistan via Penjikent was not open and that we would have to enter from Tashkent to Khojand and the Dushanbe. This involves some very high passes, inspiring scenery, but hairy bends and drops (not for the faint haearted and not the best introduction!). There is only one current guide to Tajikistan and the Pamirs - a new edition is due shortly. Distances travelled are long. Many sites are remote. A good local guide is essential - particularly for visiting historic sites, Each place we went had some fascinating things to see. In Khojand, preparations were underway for an anniversary - look out for the statue of Lenin being spruced up and surrounded by a beautiful park. The museum in Dushanbe was very rewarding and clear - once we were able to explore it by ourselves. The tour took us to the south with the Amu Daryr River and to the area where the spectacular Oxus treasure (a British Musem highlight) was discovered. Then we travelled east and the scenery got more and more dramatic, the towns and villages smaller and smaller, and the imagination began to run riot on what it must have been like 2000 years ago when camel and donkey trains took goods on one ot the most difficult of the many Silk Routes from China to the west. And then, there we were! On the opposite side of the river was Afghanistan! And a pack horse train taking goods along minute narrow paths cut into the side of 1000ft+ cliffs - just as they had always done! Absolutely the highlight of my trip.We stayed, as previous reviews say, in homestays - pretty basic. Sadly - presumably because we were on a group tour, we got little chance to make contact with the home owners or their families. A pity that, because as we have found in previous countries, it is very interesting and instructive.The High Pamirs were desperately bleak and, even with vast subsidy from the Aga Khan Foundation, very poor and down trodden. But they made up for that with spectacular mountain scenery - snow capped peaks and rushing water wherever one looked. And, as a highlight of a different sort, we moved from 30C heat to minus 5C snow and had to help push the tour bus up the hill!!Getting out of the country towards Osh was a bit of a problem - and if you want to play safe, you will need special travel insurance for the small sliver of Kirghistan in which travel is not advised by the FCO.Over the past 15 years, I have been travelling, with tour companies, across as much of the Silk Roads as is "safely" possible. Sadly, this journey was marred by poor preparation and information from The Traveller and a local guide who provided little background information about his country and its historical sites. But..Go! Tajikistan is an unknown very poor part of the ex-Soviet Union and needs to be better known. Great scenery. Fascinating sites. And an insight into life as it has been led in that part of the world for thousands of years. But do choose your tour company and guide carefully.
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In my opinion the main reason for visiting Tajikistan has to be the Pamir's, its an exceptional experience not to be missed, to visit an area of outstanding beauty where not many have been is a rare thing. Get there before the country undoubtedly becomes a tourist hot spot, the accommodation is basic and the infer structure is not developed but when you witness the awesome scenery it wont matter.
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A must visit but plan it carefully, you need 5 days minimum, to see everything, the altitude can affect people on the first day a little but only a slight headache and fast heart rate, you must try the hot springs I tried 3.