斯冈瓜伊(安东尼岛)
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斯冈瓜伊(安东尼岛)印象
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A group of us just returned from paddling in Gwaii Haanas National Park for 14 days. Due to paddling skills and the weather we opted to take a Zodiac water taxi from our camp site on Ross Island (near Rose Harbour) with Patrick Lemaire to SGaang Gwaii. Patrick has been living in Rose Harbour for a couple of decades now and knows the area very well. As it was early in the tourist season, when he took us to SGaang Gwaii, he introduced us to the Haida Watchmen (and women) at their cabin which is on a different bay from where boats land and the old village is sited. We were fortunate that two of the Watchmen, James and Ken, were able to give us our own private tour. They are both Haida and know their culture and history. During their explanations, when looking at the poles, we were able to take many photos. It really is a magical place with an island in the bay in front of the village that protects from the weather and also provided a lookout spot for any other parties arriving uninvited. And yes, these poles will be and are returning to the earth as they must do. The removal of some trees between and ones threatening the poles has helped them stand a little longer.. James will tell you about efforts that have been made in the past to retain some of the history and preserve the poles. Bring your sense of humour.The transportation by Zodiac from Moresby Camp to Ross Island really gives you an idea of how big Moresby Island really is. You can take a day trip part way down to Hotsprings Island for a dip in one of the natural pools. Bring your bathing suit. The Moresby Explorers can carry your kayak for you. All have very skilled operators.The other part worth seeing if you are short on time is Burnaby Narrows (Dolomite Narrows on nautical charts). Ask the boat operator/tour business about arriving there at low tide so you can see the incredible underwater life in brilliant colours. More biomass per square metre than anywhere else on this coast. You cannot get out of the boat as the area is so sensitive but you will see plenty from above.Before you go, my recommendation would be to read these 2 books, if nothing else, as they will give you an idea of how the Haida lived since time immemorial.Raven's Cry - Christie Harris; University of Washington Press and Douglas & McIntyre, Pub. - paperback; 1992 ISBN: -13:978-1-55054-055-0 about $23 newNinstints - Haida World Heritage Site - Dr. George F. MacDonald; University of British Columbia Museum of Anthropology, paperback, 1983Oh, and the wilderness paddling and camping was fabulous, although it's "big water" so unless you have some experience and go with a guide, be forewarned. The weather, wind and waves can be quite unpredictable, along with the tides and currents to consider. It's the best way to see the islands. If you run out of steam or food or whatever, there is transportation available for you and your kayak but you will need to carry a VHF radio to contact them. There are no roads, no stores and no cell phone service. It's wonderful.
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This is much more than just a great place to camp and kayak, and view spectacular nature!We did lots of reading in preparation for our visit, but we were still overwhelmed by the quiet majesty of the place and its central role in the history of the Haida!It's not terribly easy to get to, but do your homework, make the effort, and you will be blown away!!
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The four of us chartered a plane to get to SGaang Gwaii -- a one hour flight with Inland Air and then a half hour on a zodiac -- and, with the pilot and boatman, were the only people being shown around by the Watchman. The site is beautiful and feels quite mystic. The information about the history and culture was important to understand all we were seeing. I feel enormously privileged to have visited this remote UNESCO World Heritage site and do not regret any penny of the cost.
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So many people visit Haida Gwaii and miss going to Ninstints as it is at the far end of the park...the trip to Ninstints takes a few days but is breathtakingly beautiful. My husband and I went there about 3 years ago and it remains as one of our most treasured vacations. The totems are left in all their glory and the Haida 'watchmen' are more than happy to share their culture with you. The wildlife is also spectacular.
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I visited this place when I was volunteering on the islands in Queen Charlotte city.This is one of the places why the tourists want to visit the islands. The ancient poles are the representation of the Haida culture. I was lucky to join two of the tours at the site. I want to say that much of the experience you get there will depends on who is your guide. I would definitely advice to go with older guides. And when you are leaded by a teenager be understandable and patient. Anyway, the poles even without the stories leave an amazing impression. When you are at the village, take another trail to visit the cave. Strongly recommend to come to SGaang Gwai! Strongly recommend to come to SGaang Gwai!
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We paddled sea kayaks over to the island and walked through the cathedral of old growth forest; green, still and awe inspiring. After wandering through this mystical place, we emerged into sunlight and aging totem poles, sagging and leaning their weathered bodies. It was magical and emotional and it felt like we were in a moment of perfection. Highly recommended especially if you go through the forest first - it just makes it into a procession to the site.
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We were told by one of the watchmen that this will be the last year the poles will be 'maintained'. The poles are supposed to fall back to earth naturally. We will not be able to see standing poles in the future.
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Our visit to Ninstints was the highlight of the overall trip to Haida Gwaii. It is a magical, spiritual place, where the mortuary poles brood over the island and wind and waves dominate the landscape. Our Watchman, Paul, gave a fascinating tour, with plenty of opportunity to ask questions. We learned so much about the impressive, artistic culture of the Haida, including the significance of potlatches, the construction techniques of the houses, the hunting and fishing habits of the people, and the symbols and meanings of the figures on the poles. The poles will not be there for much longer, as the decision has been made to let them decay naturally (this will allow the spirits to be released when the poles topple). So, if you have the chance to go there, go now!
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C'est une vitrine exceptionelle sur la vie des peuples Haida au nord-ouest du Pacifcique avant l'arrivé des Europeans.
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This is a MUST when visiting Haida Gwaii. The ancient village is hauntingly beautiful. The Watchmen providing the tour are incredibly informative and kind (they can be in the village for month's on end, so bring them treats!). I recommend jumping on a charter with Haida Expeditions (also for fishing) as they are experienced, local Haida guys who deliver a first class experience.