ravello - atrani walk
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ravello - atrani walk印象
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This walk was beautiful. It seemed a bit difficult but nothing that the average person couldn't do if you allow enough time.
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Hard on the knees - a TON of stairs, but really cool to walk through real neighborhoods on the coast, and once you are down in Atrani or Amalfi looking up you can't believe how far you have gone down. Ate at Le Palme in Atrani for lunch based on a recommendation - was delicious!!
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Follow the stairs and goat paths used for centuries to connect these two towns, a gorgeous trip! We did the hike downhill and it was a picture taking joy - old homes, terraced gardens and an old seaside town. I think we had a lot more fun that the people hiking uphill.
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For all you semi non-walkers out there let me give you some detail.....this is over 3 miles of mostly steps down the hillside to the sea. Some of it is steep, steps are unmaintained and with little legs you are looking at 2 strides per stair! You do get some amazing views, get to see a lot of residential buildings (some of which are in very poor condition).....we came across a wasps nest right by the path to! I'm glad I walked down but boy did my knees complain the following day!!
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My friend and I did this walk last week on a misty/rainy day, and it was still beautiful! We walked from Atrani to Ravello and then back to Atrani. Going up to Ravello was quite the stair stepper, but whenever you stop for a breath, you'll also get a great view. There are lemon orchards all along the way, and the view of the mountain side leading to the ocean is gorgeous. I will say that I read many reviews before doing this walk, and saw the low-rating review regarding the rabid dogs along the way. I kind of laughed at that review, and then laughed again when my (non-dog-loving) friend jumped to the side of the trail when a dog started barking out of nowhere. I love dogs, but when 1 turned into about 7, all barking above us, looking like they might pounce, it actually was very frightening. We ended up deciding to turn around (without making it to Ravello :( ) Shortly after turning around, a man tending to his land appeared (spoke very little English), but was so kind, and through charades we explained that the dogs were scary and mean. He offered to walk us through the path by the dogs. Long story short - the dogs are extremely intimidating, but I don't think they will actually hurt you. If you can get through the dogs, I think you'll enjoy the outdoor adventure!
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I think it's cute that the stairways are named like streets. They look flat on the map, but don't be fooled. You'll be walking down and then back up a few kilometers' worth of old, sometimes uneven stairs. Sadly, you'll see some litter along the way, but it's one of the most rewarding walks on the Amalfi coast.
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We managed this walk on the second attempt - the first time we veered east and ended up in Minori, also good but long. This walk follows the gorge of the Dragone and is lovely, crossing the main road at several points with views on to houses, gardens, the gorge and the surrounding mountains. Arrival in Atrani is super, with a lovely square just behind the beach with a choice of cafes. So lovely in fact the there was a fashion shoot in progress when we arrived there!
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We did it in the opposite direction to most. We started the walk in atrani up some alley ways and walking in the opposite direction to the painted arrows on the floor (which point you from ravello to atrani) there is only one confusing part - when you reach a road you'll see a closed down ceramics factory. follow the road a short distance and at the junction take the direction LEFT towards 'pantone' for a little while. When you see a car workshop/garage on your right go into it and through a small tunnel. Now you'll pick up the path again, take the steps up to the road signposted ravello. From here it is easy. It took us about 1 hour to walk to ravello and about 35 mins from ravello to atrani. That was at a brisk pace.
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After a pleasant visit to Ravello, we set out down the hill towards Atrani, and then through the tunnel to Amalfi. Because we were going to Amalfi from Ravello, rather than the other way around, gravity was on our side.The route starts with some steep steps. The way is marked, but sometimes you have to look to find the markings. There are a couple of places where you have to share the road with vehicle traffic, which can get a bit scary, particularly along the switchback. Once you are clear of Ravello and enter the Atrani Valley, the way becomes a bit disappointing. The view of the valley is quite beautiful, but the trail which one follows is a little less so. The abandoned mills suffer vandalism, and the trail is occasionally littered with trash and dog-droppings. Barking dogs alert homeowners to the presence of pedestrians, though we saw only one resident along the route. Locked gates dot the way down. Cars are parked at the bottoms of steep drives which connect to the winding main road.Above the trail, the valley slopes are covered in vineyards. Churches are built on outcroppings which leave one wondering how, and why, the builders managed to construct them in such places. Across the valley from the trail, small farms and livestock pens are visible. Ancient arches are built into the hillsides, providing support for ancient roads or now-missing structures. The sound of the river flowing through valley can be heard, though seldom seem through the foliage. In Atrani, the trail gives way to flights of narrow steps nestled between ancient buildings. Ancient, by American standards, at least. Many of the buildings are empty. A small church stands lonely and silent above the walk, its battered door looking to have been locked long ago with the intent to remain that way. Locked doorways lead through walls imbedded in the cliffs. What they hid, we could only guess. The walk ends in Atrani's Piazza Umberto I, where one can find food, wine, and gelato. Atrani is a welcome respite from the touristic parts of the Amalfi coast. It is unpretentious, filled with the local flavor of Italy. Take the time to linger there, it is worth it!
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My legs started hurting after descending all the stairs. The view was worth it. In Atrani is a lovely little square where you can have great food.