david gareja monastery
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david gareja monastery印象
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This for me was the highlight of our week as pilgrims visiting the churches and monasteries of Georgia. But to gain the most out of this visit it really helps to be physically capable of taking the walk up above the monastery to see the many caves and their fantastic frescoes, high in the cliff face looking out over Azerbaijan. It is quite a challenging hike and good walking shoes with good grip essential, as is a reasonable head for heights. Also take a litre of water, a sunhat and plenty of sun cream or cover up well. It was hot up there. I found the recommended walking pole(s) a hindrance, finding it easier to use my hands to clamber and climb, and my bottom to slither down the steep bits on the way back! We saw no snakes, in spite of warnings, although watch out for them as they are poisonous, but they are more frightened of you than you of them anyway. Stick to the path! But the wild flowers and butterflies were fantastic and the views astonishing from the top, also looking back towards the monastery down below on the descent.
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We got there on the marshrutka Gareji Line from Tbilisi, which was 25 lari per person (we were four so it was cheaper and more comfortable for us than going by taxi for 150 laris). The way after the last town of Sagarejo was getting more and more astonishing. Endless green hills with flocks of sheep made us felt like on the end of the world. The driver stopped on the way for us to take the pictures, but may I say that no photograph will convey seeing it in reality. The inhabited part of monastery was impressive, but because of the monks living there we felt kind of awkward, a little bit like intruders - not that the monks did something to make us feel that, no way! It was more caused by us not knowing too much about orthodox religion and at the same time willing to respect the place... Then we started to go uphill, following the path starting by the church shop, and got a bit discouraged by the effort it required ;) but we proceeded and I must say - please don't give up on it.. the climb paid off so much. When I got back down to marshrutka, my muscles were thumping, my blood was running fast, I felt exhilarated and what may sound silly - although the site is in the desert thus very dusty, I felt kind of cleaned up, of all worries and stresses and everything :) On the way back I felt very sleepy, and the landscape was dreamy, and it was one of the most careless yet in a way deeply spiritual days in my life.
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We visited on a hot sunny afternoon, earlier in the day would have been easier. But the views as you clamber up the hillside are unbeatable. The cave monasteries you can visit are down an unmarked trail that starts at the top, by the border guard post. You can also view the currently active monastery from outside. The trail is very steep and I wished for my trekking poles (thousands of .miles away, at home!). Take lots of water and a snack.We were taken there as part of a day tour leaving from Telavi and ending at our new hotel in Tbilisi. Many thanks to our English-speaking driver and guide, David Luashvili. You can reach him at +(995) 551 30 06 20 or Davi.luashvili@gmail.com
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David Gareja is actually name for 12 monasteries in the immediate area. Most visited are Lavra and Udabno.Lavra located at the start of the hill is easy accessible and has undergone substantial renovation. It is now a fully functional monastery. Udabno is about one hour hike from Lavra up a rather steep hill. Make sure you have water with you and comfortable shoes. In the hot season beware of snakes. Udabno located on the other side of the hill which is Azeri territory (no passport needed). A good tip is to ask monks in the shop before you commence you climb since at times the border is closed and you will not be permitted to go to monastery. Udabno Monastery consist of numerous caves carved into the rock, some are more destroyed than others. Some contain traces of frescoes from 12 - 14 th century. Do not recommend this trip to parents with kids or people suffering with vertigo.Best time to visit early morning to avoid the heat.Entrance is free
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There is no doubt that this monestary built into the mountains is an amazing site. However, not a single guidebook will tell you that to get here is a steep, sometimes dangerous hike. Azerbaijan has laid claim to the monestary, so there is literally a border fence built into the hillside. And thank goodness as everyone uses the metal stakes to assist them the journey across the hillside and down. Were this in the US, no one would be allowed to attempt this visit without mountaineering gear. Really. So get yourself a strong guide (you will need help, trust me), bring plenty of water and have a go.
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What is extraordinary about this place is its location and the architecture. It is situated on the edge of the desert with close vicinity with Azerbaijan border. Many of the building of the monastery are closed for public but there are some caves worth visiting on the other side of the complex. Make sure to put on your walking shoes, it's full of vipers and the terrain is rather harsh.
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It's an easy day trip from Tbilisi and you can take the tour bus from outside the Tourist Information Office in Liberty/Freedom Square for only 25 GEL (about $15). It leaves at 11:00 AM and will drop you off at the entrance. You will then have about 3 hours to explore the place on your own which is plenty of time. I am not an experienced hiker but was able to follow the trail without too much trouble. But I was glad I was with people I met on the bus. Not sure whether I could have done it on my own. You need moderate hiking skills and must be in decent shape. There are some sections which requireeffort and agility. We were warned that we would see snakes but we ran into only a few lizards.Once you reach the summit ridge, you can see Azerbaijan on the other side. You are now in Udabno and can explore some of the cave churches with faded frescoes. The descent provides great views of the surrounding landscape. You will end up at the main monastety/Larva and can go inside, if you wish.The great thing about the David Gareja complex is that there has been no attempt to exploit it for tourism. You are in raw Nature without virtually any kind of facilities. So--bring at least two bottles of dr water and some food. Enjoy the peace, quiet, and remoteness of the place!
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discover and explore this place with me and have a unforgettable journey in your life now or soon and feel yourself
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My wife and I visited Georgia for ten days last August. I wanted to put in an endorsement for Makho Spanderashvili, an excellent driver and guide who took us to David Gareja. We had been planning to rent a car at Tbilisi airport and drive to Sighnaghi with a stop at David Gareja, but the rental company botched our reservation. So we improvised and hired a car to take us to David Gareja and then drop us in Signhaghi. Fortuitously, our driver, Makho, spoke fluent English and ended up giving us an excellent tour of David Gareja for no extra cost. I took his card and promised to give him a plug back in the States. He's a member of the Georgian Association of Guides, speaks excellent erudite English, and is unfailingly courteous. His email address is makhosp@yahoo.com. Phone: 597 10 49 47 or 599 723 321.
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Loved the cave city (may have snuck into Azerbaijan) and how incredible the paintings were. There's plenty to do to make this more than a day trip but that's all we had time for.