Getting there is difficult. It takes a lot of time to prepare for the trip to la Guajira and you need an experienced guide. Once you are there it's just breathtaking. We spent two nights at Luz Milas place ant it was really nice. The food was good and the prices were moderate. The first morning we made a boat trip in the lagoon and that was very nice. I would absolutely recommend this place!
It is not easy to get here. Do not rent a car as roads are harsh, no clear roads in the desert, and you could be a magnet for trouble. Get a driver from Riohacha, ride will be long and hard, but once there views are awesome. Food is basic, no potable water, and bathrooms are letrins ... yes, a hole and no door. Be prepared, bring your own water and snacks. For a one day trip was nice for us, but I could not picture myself sleeping in a hammock and showering from a bucket. Lots of pack packers, and people who practice windsuft and kitesurf. Place to get away, be in contact with nature, and relax. No electricity, no running water, no luxuries.
I was in cabo and decided to go that extra mile to the most northern tip of South America. Because of the season there were no boats available so we had to drive the whole way. First up this was not a comfortable ride and neither was it cheap (100000 per person for return transport). Now that is out of the way I can truly say it was an unforgettable experience - we saw no other tourists, and were able to enjoy the stunning beach set in the middle of sand dunes by ourselves, and see amazing sunsets. Only thing that slightly spoils it is some of the rubbish you see spawn along the way ... still well worth the trip!
We (me and 3 friends) had heard of the beauty of Punta Gallinas (the most northern part of South America) and decided we needed to go there! But after some tour shopping in Santa Marta we found out an organized trip would blow our budget massively! ($COP 780.000 each for a professional three day tour, or a private tour with no references for $COP 600.000 was the least we could find) plus we also wanted to see the other pearls of northern Colombia. After some Do It Yourself research on the internet we felt discouraged, it seemed so complicated and expensive we were doubting it would be worth the effort! But we decided to definitely go to Cabo de la Vela and from there decide wether to go to Punta Gallinas or not. The reason why I write this post is because it was worth the effort 100% and we feel we should encourage everyone who is doing the north of Colombia!We started our 9 day trip taking a 9.00 a.m. bus from calle 11 y carrera 11 in Santa Marta, to Palomino; a two hour bus ride ($COP 8.000). The beautiful beach of Palomino offers a variety of Hostels/Hospedajes all charging around $COP 30.000 a night. We stayed at Tiki Hut ($COP 27.000 for a comfortable dorm bed with mosquito net), a relatively new hostel with pool (no lockers but you can leave your valuables at reception). We heard the Dreamer hostel is awesome to meet other travellers and Finca Escondida is chill and right to the beach but both were fully booked. We chilled at the beach the whole afternoon and had an awesome dinner at Finca Escondida ($COP 15.000 for delicious fish!). The next day we took off for Cabo de la Vela, an early 6.30 a.m. bus from the highway in direction of Riohacha but got out at Cuatro Vias ($COP 10.000 2hrs), from there you can either take a car ($COP 8.000) or a truck which is often cheaper, to Uribia (30 min). In Uribia we did some shopping to prepare for three days in the north. We brought 2 6l. bottles of water, a bunch of crackers, bread, peanuts, toilet paper (!) ($COP 22.000) and a lot of fruits and vegetables ($COP 18.000). From Uribia you can take a truck or a jeep to Cabo de la Vela ($COP 15.000 - 20.000 for a 2 hr drive), a bumpy ride through a deserted landscape, full of trash... But! We arrived in Cabo de la Vela before mid day for a total of $COP 33.000. Cabo de la Vela is a quiet town of nothing more than some cactus wood built hospedajes, restaurants, shops and a kite surfing school (price for a 5hr class $COP 450.000). We checked in at Jarrinapi and got a Hammock right at the beach for $COP 13.000 a night. They also provided a little cabin for us to store our luggage. We would recommend going to another place because the people were unfriendly, the toilets were dirty and you can get a hammock at the beach anywhere in the village, maybe even for cheaper. But a hammock at the beach is a must! The feeling of sleeping in open air, next to the ocean,, surrounded by a Thousand stars is incredible! And we felt very safe sleeping there.The beaches in the village are clean and quiet but not very special and the people there weren't as friendly as we are used to from Colombians! But a trip to El Faro and the beaches of El Ojo del Agua (1,5 hr walk or a motor taxi for $COP 10.000 each, return trip) makes you forget about it in a split second. A beautiful beach surrounded by some rocky hills provide a feeling of exclusiveness and the sunset was awesome! After sundown we got some food at Jarrinapi (nothing special for $COP 10.000 each) and went for some Punta Gallinas transport shopping. We found out there are several ways to get there, either you take a jeep for a six hour bumpy ride, or a 1,5 hr motor/jeep ride to the 'port' and a 1,5 boat ride. The cheapest we could find was $COP 140.000 each for a return jeep/boat trip and believe me, we bargained! No matter which way you choose, everyone starts with $COP 150.000. This price includes the transport to and from Punta Gallinas and a 4 hour trip to explore the area. It does not include the night and food ($COP 15.000 a night and the same for dinner).All jeeps leave at 5.00 a.m. We arrived at our Wayuu family in Punta Gallinas at 8.00 a.m. and took the whole morning to walk around the bay and chill at the colorful beaches. The sights are undescribably beautiful and varied. The color of the bay and beach, mangroves, rocky shores, pelicans, fisher boats and some small huts, Awesome! After we had lunch (still Uribia supplies) we took our tour at 2 p.m. which consists of a trip to the actual Punta Gallinas, a viewpoint to the bay and the Taroa Dunes. Punta Gallinas was cool because you get to stand on the most northern point of Colombia, which feels great considering the fact we have been travelling all the way from Buenos Aires. But be prepared for some trashy rocks and beaches. Nothing very special about it. The bay and the desert dunes on the other hand... Amazing! Standing on the dunes, you're not able to tell where the sea begins... You can literally roll from the desert into the ocean! We stayed there the rest of the afternoon and got to make some beautiful late afternoon pictures (no sunset in the sea). Arriving back to the hostel we ordered dinner (posta de cierro en salsa for $COP 15.000), we waited for about 1,5 hrs but got the best food we have had in ages! The fish was sooo fresh, sooo good! But our advice is to order your dinner before you go on the tour. We spend the night in a hammock again, a very quiet night and after the lights go down there is nothing more than the dark, silence, millions of stars and yourself gazing at them. This bright night took my breath away. Never have I seen anything like that in my life!We left the next morning at 5.00 a.m. again to get back to Cabo de la Vela and got to see the sunrise on open sea. We had an egg breakfast there ($COP 5.000, don't order coffee, massive desillusion!!) and later spent the whole morning sleeping on the beach before we got some energy to do something else. We had a great late lunch at the end of Cabo de la Vela, from a little hut that said 'Comida Rapida' but it wasn't fast food haha, very good though and enough to fill us up for the rest of the day. We spent the afternoon at Playa Pylon, a red sand beach surrounded by two pylon shaped hills. Very pretty place!The next morning we left Cabo de la Vela at 6.30 p.m. in a truck ($COP 13.000), did some shopping in Uribia again to prepare for Tayrona (4 6l. bottles of water because 2 wasnt enough, and furthermore quite the same) for a total of $COP 48.000. Then to Cuatro Vias again, (this time for $COP 5.000) and from there a 3 hr bus to Tayrona ($COP 25.000).To enter Tayrona national park we paid $COP 38.000 and 3.000 for a ride in a mini van to the beginning of the walking trail. From there we walked for about 45 mins to Arrecifes but there wasn't much going on there so we decided to walk 1,5 hrs more to Cabo de San Juan. The trail is well maintained and pretty easy with some minor climbes, but the air is hot and humid and with 6 liters of water in our backpacks... Well a sweaty experience! But a really nice walk and Cabo de San Juan was definitely worth it. The fact that it used to be on the Colombia Lonely Planet cover says it all I guess. Though it is a bit touristy, the ambience is great. You can choose to camp or to stay in a hammock, we tried both. The first night we stayed in the hammocks at the Mirador ($COP 25.000). A wonderful experience to sleep in an open cabaña on top of a little hill with a view on the ocean, but unfortunately we had a very stormy night. Woke up a few times which was ennoying, but when I woke up around five I was surprised by a colourful blue and pink sunrise. Bring a little blanket to stay warm if you stay at the Mirador! The next day we rented a tent ($COP 25.000) and two hammocks down at the camp site ($COP 20.000). My friends who stayed in the tent had the worst night so far (the beds were awefully thin), while me and my friends slept like babies in the hammocks. The beach was nice and pretty! tip: buy a pan con chocolate from a lady selling bread on the beach, it was awesome! If you walk to the end of the beach of Cabo, you will find a small trail that leads to another beach that isn't discovered by many others. And if you go one beach further... Well, a deserted private beach! In the evenings there is not much to do except for having an average dinner and some drinks (we brought a bottle of rum to mix). Because we were kind of ready to get social and find some other travellers to hang out with, we left the next morning to Costeño Beach. A chilled out surf spot where we found about 40 other backpackers who were just relaxing at one of the many relaxing spots or surfing a bit further down the beach. The sea was quite rough so no swimming for me, but the vibe in the hostel was amazing. Just sitting, tanning, reading a book, drinking a beer :). And at night everyone sits together to play cards or sit around a camp fire... For lunch and dinner ($COP 12.000) they ring a bell for everyone to join in. For breakfast they offer some choice (all at $COP 5.000). We once again slept in a hammock for $COP 17.000 a night. This was a great place to rest, socialize and end our 9- day round trip to Punta Gallinas!Total amount for the trip: $COP 613.500 p.pPunta Gallinas : $COP 350.000 p.p.
To get here we took a 4x4 from Riohacha to just beyond Cavo de la vela and then took a VERY choppy 2 hour boat ride in something resembling a bathbub along with 4 columbians who I think it is fair to say thought we were barking mad! We bumped up and down so much in this boat against pretty big waves, in the rain - it is fair to say this was the worst of the journey.When arriving, having left the open sea you go down riverlike inlets amongst small canyon-esk rock formations, lots of birdlife, a few sunken boats and various deserted beaches before arriving at a simple jeffy.The local people are amazing, speaking their own language, very kind and genuinely interested in their new visitors. Accomodation is very simple (a hammok or super-basic room) though I slept in the hammok which was just wonderful.On arrival we were presented with 2 lobsters each and the food continued to be excellent throughout with a clear predominance of locally caught seafood. We stayed 2 nights and I would highly reccomend that - one would not really be worth the trip.The sand dunes are huge, diving steeply into the sea far below, we watched the sun set at the most northerly point of South America and it was just magical. There were other trips to some of the deserted beaches where we swam, relaxed and enjoyed the feeling of truly being away from everything. My girlfriend and I were there and on our trip was one other Scandinavian guy but apart from us and a couple of families of the Wayuu people w saw nobody else the whole time - perfect.The lonely planet described this place as travel nirvana and to be honest I would have to support that view. It was an amazing place with an amazingly special feel - so glad we went there and would reccomend it to anyone!Note: The venezuelan "Polar" beer was amazingly good while there and the locals explained that because it was so close to the border it was brought by ship - great to relax after...well not too hard a day :)
Everything has been said by other reviewers, and everyone is right about their visit. This experience mostly depends on your guide to Guajira. We made contact with Andres Delgado from Kaishi travel. He's an excellent and reliable tour guide, very organized, who subcontracts all services with native people, but plans every detail, making your experience a quite pleasant trip. He's honest with the kind of accommodation you will find and it actually exceeded our expectations. We were a party of 8, from a 7-year old kid to an adventurous grandma. We stayed one night in Punta Gallinas and other night in Cabo de la Vela. Andres was very considerate with the age differences and was always concerned about our comfort and safety. Recommendation: this trip should be made with a reliable and recommended guide. Otherwise, you could endure a harsh experience.
We organised our trip to Punta Gallinas via Expotur in Santa Marta, we were a group of 5 all together and our guide was Reuben who we met in Riohacha (a bus collected us from our hotel in Santa Marta at 4.20am to get there).We started with breakfast (incl) and then set off on our 3 day trip through the desert.Reuben didn't speak any English (which we were expecting), thankfully there were others on our trip who could speak both English and Spanish and were happy to translate, I think it could have been difficult at times otherwise :-) He was a good guide though and we always felt safe and looked after.This is quite a long and difficult trip, in that yo do a lot of driving through a lot of desert. But it is worth it, the scenery is spectacular and the scenery is completely different to that in other areas of Colombia. Even the indigeious people you meet look different too. And of course the spectacular sand dune at Punta Gallianas its self were mazing, dropping into the carribean sea. Its a widl part of the world alright and must be a hard place to live.Would recommend Expotur, meals were included, were generally very good, we slept in hammocks (vey comfortable) and everywhere we stayed had showers and clean loos. The 4x4 was modern and well kept with air-con (essential lol).
We spent the better part of 3 days to drive from Santa Marta to Cabo de la Vela (1st night) and then on to Punta Gallinas (2nd night) in La Guajira. Not much to see really. Lots of cactus (cacti..??) and low scrub, sand and sun burnt rocks. The wind was blowing incessantly which makes it somewhat unpleasant, but not unbearable. Huge sand dunes along parts of the coast is great to see. We tried snorkeling and spearfishing, but the visibility was less than 1 metre - not worth it, and we also encountered many jellyfish... However, if one wants to go to the most northern tip of South America, this is worth it.At Cabo de la Vela we stayed at Rancerita Utta. Nothing flash but at least we had clean beds and a private bathroom (cold water only but it was not a problem). Cold beer/drinks and great seafood at their restaurant. We also had some Chivo (goat) which is a speciality in La Guajira. Cost per night was COP35 000 per person, but one could go for a hammock in a communal area which is about a third of the price.At Punta Gallinas we stayed in a similar Rancherita (forgot the name) with similar prices and amenities for accommodation. Again great seafood at about half the price than in Cabo de la Vela.WARNING: Many unscrupulous tour operators operating from Santa Marta will take you for a ride...be aware that some of these guys will promise you an exclusive 4 x 4 ride, but you may end up taking a crowder hot bus to Cabo de la Vela, and an open air 4 x 4 truck (hard wooden benches on the back) to Puta Gallinas.
Punta Gallina, úžasna cesta k najsevernejšom cípe Kolumbie a Južnej Ameriky , nádhernej prírodnej krajiny stolových hôr , duny , skalné útesy a modré more , ktoré tečie , aby sa krásne zátoky , ako tato Bahia Hondita. English in my web side.frantisek dobrota UP to YOU page all in englishnand istructions
Travelled to Cabo by car from Manizales (a 2.5 day trip). Stayed a few night in Cabo de la Vela and then drove about 1-2 hours to the place were you take the boat ride to punta gallinas. As others have pointed out, it is a rough boat ride, but well worth it. We were lucky given that as we left the open sea to get into the less exposed waters we were welcomed to the region by wild pink flamencos. We spent 6 nights in Punta Gallinas with my wife and her parents. Our goal was to relax and this is definitely the place to do so. We only saw two other couples of tourists, and they both left after 2 nights. Did not see any other tourists after that. The first day we got there late as our boat ride was more complicated than usual given it was rainy/stormy season. A 2h boat ride took closer to 5:30 hours in rough seas. This is not a boat rode for the faint of heart. I've been in rougher seas, but the combination of these rough seas with a small fishing skiff was hard to take. However, be mindful of driving. If it rains while you are there the roads may close for weeks.Sun was setting as we arrived, so we walked to the fisherman's beach to see the sunset. One of the most beautiful we have ever seen. A word of caution, this beach is not for swimming or for kids as it is a real fisherman's beach with leftovers from dead fish lying around.We rented two rooms, which come with hammocks just outside of their doors. Having the rooms was nice as they gave us private bathrooms (no running water, shower with a bucket or with a trickle from a water tank above). However, we always slept in the hammocks and did not use our beds one single night. I highly recommend this, less bugs and cooler temps :)The next day we went to the actual northern most point in South America. A beautiful spot, and asked to be dropped at the sand dunes and made our way back to the village by foot, with a local guide of course. Plenty of beautiful sand dunes that fall straight into the sea. We swam in the sea along the way a few times. Be careful, these beaches along the sand dunes have very strong currents And unexpected drops, so stay close to shore.A few hours later we were back, tired as the walk took place in very warm weather. Slept a long siesta and then ate a very nice lobster dinner, spent the evening talking with the other two tourist couples and with the Wayou.Next day we took some bikes and went for a pick nick in another beach. This one was very calm and you could swim safely. The path to get there took you through the actual large Wayou village obthe region and on our way back we stopped talk with the Wayou. Night fell really quickly and we had to ask for a ride back to the hotel as it was pitch dark.The next day we went for a long hike, going west of the place where we were staying. Not very easy to get lost as you simply head to the seas and come back east until you hit the fisherman's beach, and then it is a 15min walk to the rooms. This walk was amazing, the beaches were very nice, the water a million different colors, but we did no find many places to swim as it was mostly rocky. Next day we took a boat ride to see flamencos and spent the afternoon at another lovely and safe to swim beach.And the days continued to pass in this fashion. Hikes, lovely encounters with the Wayou, many baby goats, one or two close calls with scorpions and snakes, large (friendly) locust. No cellphones, very few hours of electricity (from small generators).This place gives you a sense that you are lost in time, back in a much simpler era. The sheer isolation allowed us to reconnect with family and each other, meet new people and also reconnect with nature. Not a trip for everyone, but if you often look at lonely planet destinations and are adventurous, this is probably a top destination for you. I have been to 91 countries and many trips of this type but had been nostalgic over the last few years for those trips back in the day when you arrived to a destination and felt completely isolated. Well, no more. Not sure if I will ever be back (too many places left to see), but I will always remember this trip fondly and with, I have to admit it, some level of nostalgia for the simpler times it reminded me of. Never had a hard time adjusting back to life after a vacation (life is in Canada), but this time it almost seemed like a part of me did no come back :)