If you are only going make one centennial visit to an American WWI site, the area around Chateau Thierry starting with Belleau Wood is the trip to make. The battle here was America’s largest engagement since Appomattox; and June 6, 1918 was the highest single day of casualties in Marine Corps history to that date.Once you leave the main Paris highway, the pace slows down on the country road while you look for the guide posts. Which woods would it be? Which patch is the famous wheat field? Did we miss a turn? And then you are there. A white flag pole at the end of a quiet lane leads into the woods of the former hunting preserve ground up by battle. And on this particular cold and rainy October morning, alone with only our companions and thoughts, we were struck by the absolute silence of the forest. It didn’t seem so much ghostly as dutifully enfolding and guarding the solemnity of its history. We walked the muddy paths reading the small memorial markers trying to imagine those three weeks in June a hundred years ago. What was it like with a machine gun behind every rock and tree? How awful must have been the hand-to-hand combat and slash and plunge of bayonets? Which indents were shallow trench remains, which “only” shell holes? How many trees there today are survivors, how many replacements? Logging has been forever forbidden because of the danger of embedded shrapnel to the saws. The captured German 7.7 cm FK 16 guns around the memorial monument give dark testament to the viciousness of the fighting, the shadows of the trees unable to answer the questions of war. The only response is a lowered voice and a realization that history should be heeded, honored and remembered.
This Cemetery and memorial cite is stunning; the condition of the grounds is immaculate, they have maintained the integrity of the surrounding woods by cleaning the trenches and keeping some cannons placed exactly where they were left... You can see wounds on the older trees where they were damaged by artillery and machine gun fire. It is without a doubt one of the most intense experiences I have ever had. My husband and I went for the memorial service, he is a Marine, and the local support is amazing. So many French men, women, and children were there to honor the American Marines, asking to take pictures with my husband, thanking him, it was more than I could have imagined. It is easy to lose sight of the sacrifices these men gave in America, because it didn't take place in our backyards, but it is remembered and lived daily here. The people have not forgotten, and we couldn't ask for the men who found their final resting place in Belleau Wood and the surrounding wheat fields to have better care and more love. There is nothing I can complain about. It was beautiful.
There atop the hill at Belleau Wood, with the bodies of so many young Americans buried below, is a tribute to the Marines, yes, United States Marines, who took part in the battle of Belleau Wood. The trails are lovely and well marked and show the scars of the battle, even today. Well worth the trip.
This area is located in the woods behind the cemetery. Ask in the chapel for directions, but if you come out the front entrance, make a right and stay to the right, you should end up near these guns and the Iron Mike statue. There are some other sites to see near here, we did not have time to see them.
Very well kept cemetery with a German one next door. Very moving such a loss of life. Very helpful in the visitors office and will give you a map so you can go into the woods and see the weapons left at the battle. In the chapel the names of the missing are engraved on the walls.
We arrived at Belleau Wood on a damp, dreary December day. It was a far cry of what would have been experienced by the young Marines on the hot summer days of 1918, but it made the mood of the memorial site and cemetery even more solemn. The approach to the memorial to the Marine Brigade is through the forest; and the small clutch of period artillery pieces and shells that surround monument made a moving setting and one well worth the visit. The cemetery site, and the rows of white crosses (and stars of David), was equally moving with the two tall American flags and the imposing tower of the cemetery building looking down upon them.It was one of the high points of this visit to France, and one worth the visit.
Very moving experience. English Speaking guide at the entrance was very helpful. Worth driving into the woods and taking the recommended walk to get a feel of the place.
Such a remarkable cemetery. There is also a nice walking trail with several Marine Core plaques with information about battles fought in the area. Great place to visit--well worth the trip.
This trip was the highlight of our holiday and the reason why our ex-US Marine son-in-law wanted to visit the area so much. We visited the cemetery, memorial and took a trip around the wood itself with the help of the written guided tour. It was really moving to stand on the hill overlooking the field where more US Marines were slaughtered in one day than had previously died in their entire history - over one thousand casualties in a single day. We stood in the dense, cool woodland overlooking the bright golden cornfield baked by a hot sunny day and it made your skin prickle, we couldn't hear any birdsong or other noise. It is hard to imagine what bravery and courage those men had to overcome their fears and climb that steep hill to defeat their enemy. Of course we had to visit the famous/infamous Devil Dog fountain and our son-in-law drank from it thus increasing his life expectancy by ten years (if you believe the legend). The cemetery is kept in immaculate condition and the lady at the Lodge was very helpful and friendly as was the young lady at the museum. It was poignant to read the names of the dead and think that so many of them had no doubt travelled to the US from Europe to find a better life and then returned to Europe to meet their death.Look out for the marker on the opposite side of the road which marks the extent of the boundary line of the advance on November 1918 and also the little German cemetery just up the road which is in such stark contrast to the impressive glory of the American one. A poignant comment on victory and defeat in war. An absolute must for every American to stop by and pay their respects to their fellow countrymen buried on foreign soil and a moving experience for all of us.
I was surprised at the immaculate condition of this memorial site, especially since admission is free, and I am so happy that my husband (a USMC infantry officer) and I were able to make the trip. We rented a car and drove less than an hour outside of Paris to find it nestled in beautiful French countryside. We arrived over lunch, so the superintendent was not around while we roamed the cemetery and the memorial, but we caught him later after trying (and failing) to find the Devil Dog Fountain in the village. He spent about an hour with us, telling us everything we wanted to know about the history (and folklore) of the area. He then gave us the key and precise instructions on how to access the fountain (it is nestled in the village behind a little gate, across from the Pershing museum.) The water was delicious and I'm already feeling younger :)Also, don't miss the trench remnants. It makes for a somber, yet thoughtful experience. Very worthy day trip from Paris.