desierto de la tatacoa
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desierto de la tatacoa印象
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Although is much smaller than I expected, overall it was a good trip. We rented the quads and drove all over the place, it was fun.I was expecting a bigger place, though.
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This place is like an hallucination, very weird landscape and views. It really takes you away from any reality. VERY VERY hot and dry. Worth the visit.
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As with many places in Colombia, if you are looking to enjoy the tranquillity of this place, you should come during the week. on weekends it can get packed and noisy, which kind of spoils the desert experience. I recommend hiring a horse to go from the desert's red part to the older, grey part at los hoyos (40'000 COP). Also, get started as early as you can to avoid the heat.
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I did all I could to start a thread of reviews for El Chopo, because this man deserves it. El Chopo means the 'smallest in the family' as he will happily explain to you. But Don Chopo is a grown man with plenty to offer on the whereabouts of the Desierto de la Tatacoa. Let's be clear: I think anybody visiting the desert without a guide is missing out. There is absolutely no point in wandering around without proper guidance. The place is just too hot and to inhospitable for foreigners without a clue. El Chopp offered two walking options: caminata corta (short walk) of two and a half hours and caminata larga (long walk) which we took almost 5 and a half hours to complete but can be done in less than 4 if you wake up very early. Both walks need to be done before or after the hottests hours of the day (11 am to 4 pm).In he short walk we visited: We concluded it with a stop at the observatory where every night around 6,30/7 pm ( go figure Colombian time keeping) an astronomer talks about the stars and let's you use some quite powerful instruments to look at planets, constellations, etc.The desert is a privileged spot for star gazing as it offers both the northern and southern emisphere part of the sky, being near the equatorial line. Unfortunately when we were here the sky was cloudy and so we missed that completely. Rubbish, I know, but what can you do. Let me reassure you it's worth the trip even if you miss the stars.As for the long walk, we went with a bunch of Colombian friends our age and it was good fun. It was intense because we started out too late in the morning, around 8 am, and paid for it with a super hot sun on our heads for half of the excursion. We visitedEl Chopo will show you fossils, guide you in the desert, show you animals and vegetation.I should also mention that El Chopo arranged transfer from and to the airport of Neiva. That is done with a taxi, while from Villavieja to the desert you will travel with El Chopo taxi, a curious mototaxi that is a legend in the desert.El Chopo does not speak English although he is studying it night. I am fluent in Spanish and always talked with him in Spanish but I have thought it over and I think even if you only speak English you should tell him, maybe have somembody translate the email for you where you indicate exactly everything you want, your dates, times, etc and he will take care of everything. I think even if he can't explain stuff in the desert it is still worth to walk with him. He made the difference for us.
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Tatacoa is next to Villavieja. You get there by public transport, well a mix between bus and taxi, from Neiva. You can use this transport to go all the way to Tatacoa, preferably a hostal close to the Astro. Observatory. There are a few hotels in Villavieja and maybe five hostals close to the observatory, which is about 5km from Villavieja.We payed 12'000COP p.p. all the way to a hostel behind the observatory.If you actualy want to experience Tatacoa, you have to spend a couple of days. One night is not enough. Even in the desert, the sky is not always clear, and a visit to the observatory is definitly a must. The views are awesome.During the day, or better early in the morning, it is good to do hikes to see all the amazing colours and formations, all the birds and the plants. No this is not a real, dry desert.In the afternoon, you might use the pool at your hostel or go to the Lagoon for a swim.If it is too warm in the night, you can sleep outdoor in hammacs
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If you are in Neiva , you should go to this desert. It is one of the three deserts of Colombia. But quite different from the other two , i.e, La Guajira and Candelaria. It was shaped by the withdrawing of the sea a long time ago , and colors of the desert are beautiful . There is a lot of nature there, especially birds. Take a cab from Neiva to the desert (or a bus) and spend some hours there. There are locations with small ponds , which are an attraction for birds.
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We stayed 2 nights in the desert. I think this is the minimum to see everything in a slow pace.Stars:We couldn't see anything acuse was very cloudy!The hostel: El Despertar del CabritoNice room, clean and with private bathroom. Better than we were expecting! The food is ok. Nothing special (around US$ 4/meal). Breakfast is not that good... could be better!The owner are nice and if you complain about something they will try to fix it!!!!Horseback Ride: we used the hostel serviceThe horses are quite small and in the beginning we were not so happy. The saddles are not comfortable. But the ride is amazing!!! We could decide when to run or the horses are really good on that!!! The landscape is amazing!!!! The desertsBoth are beautiful! We liked more the grey one, but the red one is also beautiful! Both are tiny but really worthy!
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Dig it. I stayed at Noches de Saturno which is just inside the entrance of Cusco (about a 15 minute drive from Villavieja) - just down the road from the observatory. It was 25,000 COP (about $13 US) for my own room (I believe it is 25k per person when more than one) with two beds and a bathroom. The staff were very friendly. Pedro, a member of the staff, provided tours into the desert for roughly 15,000 COP (less than $10 us) a day. They also provided three meals a day for around 7-10k a pop. You can pet the goats and/or...eat some of one if you want. I did. There are lots of animals to befriend: chickens, ducks, roosters, parrots, goats, and turkeys. They have a little pool to chill out in when it gets hot. I found the desert itself to be a blast to walk through with and without a guide. The observatory has a presentation every night, but both nights I was there were overcast... no show. Villavieja wasn't much more than a bump in the road. I rode a motorcycle down so I cannot speak on transportation issues other than to say that you can turn right after the toll booth well after Natagaima when heading south and take your moto across the Magdalena in a wee boat to avoid riding all the way down to Neiva and then backtracking to Villavieja. I was told you can also do this in Aipe which is just across the river from Villavieja. I'd say there were roughly 10 or so other places to stay spread over the desert near Cusco. And, apparently, you could just plant a tent right smack dab in the middle of the desert if you wanted to. La, la, la-la-la-la-la, la, la, la, laaaa, la.
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Quite eerie empty and amazing landscape.we went around the desert in the afternoon, it was not as hot as as was expecting and was quite pleasant walking. We took a trip ioriginated in Neiva and included a guide, a necessary requiremtent for ourselves, otherwise we might have got lost. The trip included an overnight stop in Villavieja; the overnight stay enabled us to go to the observatory and watch the sky at night, a great experience as the position of the observatory on the equator enables observation of both hemispheres . The professor conducting the observation was extremely informative and provided excellent commentary.
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We planned for an overnight stay and we think it was worth it. The so-called 'labyrinth' was beautiful at sunset. It's a small area and can be explored in a few hours. We came back again at sunrise and it was nice. The area before the observatory when coming from Villavieja has a lot of cacti and is beautiful. We heard from other travelers that there is another 'labyrinth' but it has gray soil so it's probably not as scenic. There is also suppose to be a pool in that area but is not very clean.