steens mountain
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steens mountain印象
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Far from most everywhere, you have to want to get there but it is beautiful. The Steens rise over 9000 feet out of the Oregon desert. We saw wild horses, mule deer, pronghorn antelope; and elk and bobcat sign. Coyotes surrounded the campground and woke us one morning. Robins, night hawks, doves and poor wills gave a serenade each night as the sun went down. Raptors circled, owls hooted at night. In early June the weather was perfect with warm days and cool nights. Lovely wildflowers were blooming. Very few people were there. On the downside, the creeks were running high making trail crossings difficult. The scenic loop road was closed at the top due to snow, rocks and road damage. (It will open sometime in late July.) But we parked our car outside the gates on both ends and had lovely hikes in. We spent an entire week hiking, touring the nearby heritage sights (French Round Barn, Riddle Brother's Ranch and more) and driving around the entire range, passing the big Alford Desert and Mann Lake on the other side. Check the Bureau of Land Management site before you go for information on accommodations, supplies, closures, etc. http://www.blm.gov/or/districts/burns/recreation/steens-mtn.php Planning is important here. The 4 camp grounds vary greatly. Hotels are at a minimum and a full tank of gas is a must. Minimal food services and supplies are available. It would be very hot in the middle of summer. Combine with the Blitzen Valley Auto Tourhttp://www.malheurfriends.org/pdf/autotourroute.pdf and Malheur Wildlife Refuge http://www.fws.gov/malheur/ (birder's paradise!)
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This is an area not to be missed in south eastern Oregon. It is a winding gravel road that takes you from the desert floor over rivers and up to the 9,734 ft. high point. I visited in October. I saw beautiful aspen groves turning color, wild mustangs, wildlife and beautiful views of the various valleys. It's so quiet and peaceful. You can get close to the gun sight notch. There's a very cool explanation of how it is formed. Go visit!
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We had not intended to visit Steens Mountain because of what we had heard about the roads. However, we were encouraged to go by a couple we met at the B&B -and are we glad we did!It's a beautiful trip, 60 miles on paved roads from Burns and then close to 30 miles on the gravel north road from Frenchglen. You pass through juniper forests on a slow ascent to 9500+ feet above sea level.When you get there, it's kinda like the top of the world from which you can see the past, as in the pockets of snow still there in August and the glacial gorges the span out in several directions.The south road back was steeper but in much better condition than we had expected. Steens Mountain is a "must see" experience!!
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The drive up to the top of Steens Mountain is fairly long, and the gravel road, especially on the steep route from French Glen, is very rough in places (washboard), but it is well worth it. The views are varied, and each is spectacular. We also stopped to view the wild horses on this trip.
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Please note that at mile 28 on the north entry there is a road collapse that per one local will take 6 months to repair. You can enter on the north side or the south side but cannot make "the loop". The south side road was in desperate need of grading, but the views of this special land were wonderful. The weather seemed to put a lot of critters into the lower hills, mostly wild horses and antelope, but you will need good lenses to see them. The hilltops are being dusted with snow as of the last week of September but the Aspen have not really turned out in their Fall colors yet. If you are crazy enough you can exit the south Steens loop roadway, drive north and catch a gravel road south and west to the Hart Mountain Antelope Refuge and then on to Lakeview--but it is a long day.
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Take the loop by start at the south entrance and you will see the canyons better. First 10 miles are boring though from that direction and the road was rough. Stopped at Riddle Ranch for lunch break. Before Riddle Ranch (BLM owned) there is a road that goes to the right (south) and the only sign says it is a wildlife area so we did not go. At Riddle Ranch the caretaker told us there are wild horses there. Sheesh! Would have been nice if there was some kind of notification at the south entrance or at the road junction. We did not have time to go back. From the ranch the scenery gets better and better until you reach the ridge, which is spectacular. Highly recommend. The loop will probably take about 2.5 to 3 hours depending on how many times you stop. Took us about 4 hours because we stop a lot.
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Steens is the star of the show in the high desert of SE Oregon. It's a "fault block" mountain -- largest in North America -- formed by upwelling lava. One side is a gentle slope, ending abruptly with a steep dropoff and fantastic views of the region to the east ans south. Because of the nature of a "fault block," you can drive all the way to the summit, at 9,700 feet.The area has the darkerst night skies in the Lower 48, which makes for indescribable star gazing. Lots of wildlife in the area -- deer, antelope, coyotes, some wolves, rattlers. Watch where you step, especially at lower elevations.
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We drove up to the summit from Frenchglen. The gravel road is teeth-chattering washboard for about 3 miles, then quite smooth. Kiger Gorge ("Oregon's Yosemite"), Little Blitzen Canyon, and Wildhorse lake must be seen to be believed. We followed the North Loop; there are reports that the very poor road surface on the South Loop east of Riddle Brothers Ranch has been repaired, but we did not chance it in our passenger car.
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If you live in Oregon, Idaho, Nevada, or Northern California a trip to the Steens Mts. Should definitely be in your travel plans.We traveled here in September, the daytime weather was perfect; it was cold at night, so if you are tent camping as we were, bundle up. The two campgrounds, Fishlake and South Steens, were both very clean and well maintained. There are no hookups if you are in an RV, but for $8 and $6 it's impossible to beat!The canyons of the Steens are spectacular! You will only get better views at the Grand Canyon, but with no crowds. A great place for hiking and back country camping. Worth the effort it takes to get there!
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There are few places where it is easier to get from the valley to the mountaintop. The road out of Frenchglen rises steadily but smoothly to within a couple hundred feet of the 9733 foot top of Steens Mountain. The gravel road is well maintained in the dry season and requires no four-wheel drive (though that would make it easier). The road runs up to several overlooks culminating with a parking area where you choose between a short hike to the peak or a long and difficult descent to the hanging valley that is home to Wildhorse Lake, both excellent destinations. The views down to the Alvord Desert on the east side are spectacular from several different spots.The full loop road continues back down to meet Highway 205 about 10 miles south of Frenchglen. The road is good the whole way. Snow is an issue for all but four or five months so plan accordingly.